For Professionals: Moen Pro | Commercial

Replacement Parts

Describe Your Problem

Fixture leaks from the end of the spout

Typical Cause

Leaks are often caused by a scratched o-ring or grommet on the cartridge. On models that use a handle mechanism, a broken part could also be the cause.

Solution

  1. Replace the cartridge (on one-handle models) or cartridges (on two-handle models). It is essential that the model of the unit be identified to ensure you are replacing the proper cartridge. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model and the cartridge(s) required. After determining the model, you can view step-by-step instructions in our Animated Installation Help section.
  2. If the faucet uses a handle mechanism, inspect the parts. If one of these items is broken, the handle mechanism will need to be replaced. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine which handle mechanism your model uses.
    Note: Improper installation of the handle mechanism can also cause this to occur.
Kitchen faucet leaks at the bottom of the spout

Typical Cause

On non-pullout or non-pulldown models, a scratched or torn o-ring or rubber seal not sealing properly inside of the spout can cause a leak. If this is a pullout or pulldown model, the vacuum breaker within the spout receptor may not be sealing properly.

Solution

For non-pullout or non-pulldown faucets:

This issue should be resolved by replacing the o-ring(s) inside of the spout. The number of o-rings inside of your spout will vary depending on the model. It is essential to identify the model of the faucet in order to obtain the proper Moen service kit with the correct spout o-rings for your model; different models utilize different sizes of o-rings. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model. We recommend lubricating the spout o-rings with silicone-based grease (Moen part number 99915, included with o-ring kits). Do not use plumber's grade faucet grease, silicon sprays or any lubricant that may contain petroleum. Petroleum-based lubricants may react with the rubber seals and could cause the spout to become difficult to operate. When replacing the o-rings, it is recommended that you clean the inside of the spout and the outside of the valve body.

For pullout or pulldown faucets:

  1. Check the connection between the hose and the wand. There should be a screen washer or o-ring (depending on the model) that provides a seal between the two. If this is missing, or if it is compromised, then the screen washer or o-ring will need to be replaced. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your faucet and the correct part or kit for that model.
  2. If your model has a vacuum breaker, it may be leaking. This issue would be resolved by replacing the vacuum breaker or installing a vacuum breaker conversion kit inside of the spout receptor. This part will vary depending on the age and model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your faucet and the correct part or kit for that model.
Side spray leaks when faucet is turned on

Typical Cause

The side sprayer is not able to shut off completely.

Solution

The side sprayer would need to be replaced. It is imperative to identify your model because the side sprays are unique to certain models. To determine your model, please see our Find Your Product section. It is also recommended that you look underneath the sink to view the connection of the side spray hose to the discharge tube of the faucet. It is possible to have either a threaded connection (identified by a metal nut at the end of the hose) or our Hydrolock connection (a black piece with a white clip at the end of the hose) on the side sprayer hose. Make sure the correct connection type is obtained for your faucet.

Kitchen faucet leaks between the spout and the handle

Typical Cause

This type of leak is often caused by scratched or torn o-ring on the cartridge or spout.

Solution

First, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

For non-pullout or non-pulldown faucets:

This issue should be resolved by replacing the o-ring(s) inside of the spout, as well as the cartridge. The number of o-rings inside of your spout will vary depending on the model. It is essential to identify the model of the faucet in order to obtain the proper Moen service kit with the correct spout o-rings for your model; and different models utilize different sizes of o-rings. When replacing the o-rings, clean the inside of the spout and the outside of the valve body. We also recommend lubricating the spout o-rings with silicone-based grease (Moen part number 99915, included with o-ring kits). Do not use plumber's grade faucet grease, silicon sprays or any lubricant that may contain petroleum. Petroleum based lubricants may react with the rubber seals and could cause the spout to become difficult to operate. Also, the correct cartridge will need to be identified and replaced.

For pullout or pulldown faucets:

Replacing the appropriate cartridge for your model of faucet should resolve the issue.

Low water flow from spout — BOTH hot and cold water on sink faucets

Typical Cause

Depending on the model, this could be caused by debris in the cartridge, debris in the aerator, a stuck diverter or a malfunctioning wand.

Solution

First, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model. Also, it is recommended that the supply lines from the shut-off valves be checked to ensure the faucet is receiving full pressure from both hot and cold supply lines.

For pullout or pulldown kitchen sink faucets:

Remove the hose from the wand and inspect the screen that is in between these items. If there is debris in the screen, rinse it off with water. Then, hold the end of the hose in the sink and turn on the water. If the pressure is good from the hose, reinstall the screen and wand. This should resolve the issue. If there is still low pressure after reinstalling the wand, then the wand would need to be replaced. If there is low water pressure from the hose, the cartridge would need to be replaced and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.

For non-pullout or non-pulldown kitchen sink faucets:

Remove the aerator and rinse off any debris. If this does not resolve the issue, and if the unit also has a side spray, check the pressure from the side spray. If the side spray has good pressure, then try activating the trigger on the side spray several times to see if pressure returns to the spout. If it does not, then the diverter would need replaced. If your model uses a hardware kit (Moen part number 100886) with a diverter, then it is recommended that the hardware kit be replaced in addition to the diverter. If this does not resolve the issue (or if your faucet does not have a side sprayer), the cartridge would need to be replaced and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.

For bathroom sink faucets:

Remove the aerator and rinse off any debris. If this does not resolve the issue, then the cartridge (for one-handle faucets) or cartridges (for two-handle faucets) would need to be replaced and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.

Low water flow from spout — ONLY hot or cold water on sink faucets

Typical Cause

This is caused by the shut off valves not being turned on, a lack of pressure through one of the shut off valves or an obstruction in one of the supply lines feeding water to the faucet.

Solution

  1. Make sure both shut-off valves are fully turned on.
  2. Check both the supply lines from the shut-off valves to the faucet. These supply lines need to deliver full pressure to the faucet. If the supply lines do not deliver full pressure, then the faucet will not produce full pressure. The plumbing of the home would need to be investigated for a resolution.
  3. If the issue is still not resolved, then the cartridge (for one-handle faucets) or cartridges (for two-handle faucets) would need to be removed (or replaced) and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.
Low flow from side spray / Water still comes from spout with side spray activated

Typical Cause

This is caused by a malfunctioning diverter or debris within the valve/spout.

Solution

Replace the diverter. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model and the required diverter. Also, make sure the valve body is cleaned. In some models, the diverter is installed in the valve body; on other models it is installed around the valve body under the spout. If it is one of these models, make sure the spout is cleaned as well.

If the side spray does not shut off completely, it would also need to be replaced.

Pulldown wand "falls" out of spout

Typical Cause

The hose weight is out of position, the docking collar is broken or the hose has yet to be calibrated.

Solution

  1. Check the location of the hose weight. Some models will have white indicator mark on the hose. It is recommended the weight be installed between the start of the loop curvature and this mark. If your model does not have a white mark, then install the weight anywhere between 4" to 8" up from the start of the loop curvature. For optimal performance, maintain an 8"x8" clear area for the hose and weight to travel, free of any moveable items (bottles, cleaning supplies, etc.).
    Note: The weight might need to be repositioned higher on the hose if non-moveable pipes or other fixtures are interfering with the hose or weight.
  2. Inspect the docking collar. This will typically be a black plastic piece at the end of the spout where the wand should reside. If this is broken, it will need to be replaced. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model and the required docking collar.
  3. If this is a new installation, the hose will need to be calibrated. This will occur after the hose has been filled with water and used for 24 hours.
Pullout or pulldown wand will not divert between "stream" and "spray" modes

Typical Cause

The diverter within the wand is malfunctioning.

Solution

Replace the wand. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model and the required wand.

Spout is difficult to rotate

Typical Cause

This is caused by debris and/or an impaired o-ring inside of the spout.

Solution

For non-pullout or non-pulldown faucets:

  1. Remove the spout and lubricate the spout o-rings with silicone-based grease (Moen part number 99915). Do not use plumber's grade faucet grease, silicon sprays or any lubricant that may contain petroleum. Petroleum-based lubricants may react with the rubber seals and cause the spout to become even more difficult to operate. It is also recommended that you clean the inside of the spout and the outside of the valve body when replacing the o-rings.
  2. Replace the o-rings inside of the spout. The number of o-rings inside of your spout will vary depending on the model. It is essential to identify the model of the faucet in order to obtain the proper Moen service kit with the correct spout o-rings for your model; and different models utilize different sizes of o-rings. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model and the correct Moen service kit that will have the proper o-rings. Remember to clean the inside of the spout and the outside of the valve body when replacing the o-rings, as well as lubricating the o-rings with silicone-based grease (Moen part number 99915).
  3. Inspect the retainer nut on top of the spout (if applicable). Make sure it is not overly tightened.

Note: If the mounting nut underneath the sink is overly tightened to the mounting bracket, this could cause the spout to be difficult to rotate.

For pullout or pulldown faucets:

  1. Remove the spout receptor and clean any debris that is impeding the movement.
  2. If there is corrosion on the valve body of the interior of the spout receptor, the faucet will need to be replaced.

Note: If the mounting nut underneath the sink is overly tightened to the mounting bracket, this could cause the spout receptor to be difficult to rotate.

Handle is difficult to operate

Typical Cause

This is usually caused by (but not limited to) sediment or debris in the cartridge, mineral buildup or a damaged seal within the cartridge. If the handle is loose it may not be installed properly or there may be an issue with the handle mechanism.

Solution

The cartridge will need to be serviced or replaced, depending on the model. To determine your model, please see our Find Your Product section.

For one-handle faucets with a 1225 cartridge, simply remove the cartridge and lubricate it both inside and out with a silicone-based grease (Moen part number 99915). Do not use plumber's grade faucet grease, silicon sprays or any lubricant that may contain petroleum. Petroleum-based lubricants may react with the rubber seals and could cause the handle to become even more difficult to operate.

For one-handle faucets with a 1255 or 4000 cartridge, the cartridge would need to be replaced.

For two-handle faucets, the 1224 cartridge would need to be replaced.

For Posi-Temp shower faucets, the 1222 cartridge would need to be replaced.

Handle will not stay in the on position (one-handle faucets)

Typical Cause

During manufacturing, lubrication (silicone) is used on the cartridge. The combination of lubrication and the weight of the handle can cause the faucet to self-close. For models using a handle connector, a metal washer may be missing or the connector could be broken.

Solution

First, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

If your faucet has a 1225 cartridge:

  1. Make sure all screws are tight.
  2. Remove excess silicone from the center stem of the cartridge.

If your faucet has a 1255 cartridge, replace the cartridge.

If your faucet has a 4000 cartridge, tighten the cartridge nut or replace the cartridge.

If your faucet has a handle connector:

  1. Change the handle connector.
  2. If the cartridge was replaced, check the old cartridge stem for a gray metal washer. This washer must be transferred to the stem of the new cartridge.
No COLD (just hot) or No HOT (just cold) water on tub shower units

Typical Cause

Debris or an obstruction in the balancing spool is causing it not to move freely within its housing. In some models, a lack of pressure feeding the hot and cold will be the cause. The valve also may need to be calibrated.

Solution

First, verify the hot water system in the home is operational.

Second, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

For Posi-Temp models:

The 1222 cartridge would need to be replaced and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.

For Moentrol models:

Inspect the 1423 balancing spool. This will appear on the front of the valve body, either to the right or above the cartridge. It will look similar to a large flat head screw, and it will be brass in color. A large flat-bladed screwdriver can be used to unscrew the balancing spool from the valve. There will be a spool inside this piece, and it needs to move freely inside of its shell. If the spool does not move freely, then the 1423 balancing spool will need to be replaced.

For ¾" ExactTemp models:

Note: For ½" ExactTemp valves refer to original service manual

  1. Verify the shut off valves (check stop kit) are in the open position. This will be a screw in the center of the check stop kit. These should be unscrewed counter-clockwise.
  2. Check to see if the hot and cold lines are reversed. If the supply lines are accessible, feel the temperature of the pipes. The cold supply must be connected to the cold (right) side of the valve, and the hot supply must be connected to the hot (left) side of the valve. If this is the case, the valve will need to be reinstalled. Note: The cartridge cannot be reversed to correct this issue.
  3. The cartridge would need to be calibrated. Instructions on calibration can be obtained via the ExactTemp Service Manual in our Literature Center.

Note: When calibrated properly, the ExactTemp valve should provide a range of temperature of 80 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

For ioDigital models:

  1. Verify the shut off valves are in the open position. These will vary depending on your ioDigital model.
  2. Remove the valve inlet screens and inspect for any debris. The water supply will need to be shut off, and then the black nut on the inlets can be unscrewed to remove the inlet screens. Rinse off any debris that may be on these screens and reinstall.

For standard valve models:

  1. Check to see if there are shut off valves installed with the unit. Verify these valves are opened all the way.
  2. The cartridge (for one-handle faucets) or cartridges (for two-handle faucets) would need to be removed (or replaced) and the valve body would need to be flushed and cleaned.
No WARM water (no mixture of hot and cold) on tub shower units

Typical Cause

This is most likely due to an error in installation, an issue with the cartridge, a lack of hot and cold water supplied to the valve or a lack of calibration of temperature.

Solution

First, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

For Posi-Temp models:

  1. Make sure the handle is on properly. If it is on upside down, the handle will not rotate the cartridge to provide a mixture of hot and cold. Simply remove the handle and reinstall.
  2. If issue persists, replace the 1222 cartridge and flush the valve body.

For Moentrol or standard valve models:

Replace the 1225 cartridge and flush the valve body.

For ExactTemp models:

  1. Verify the shut off valves (check stop kit) are in the "open" position. This will be a screw in the center of the check stop kit. These should be unscrewed counter-clockwise.
  2. Check to see if the hot and cold lines are reversed. If the supply lines are accessible, feel the temperature of the pipes. The cold supply must be connected to the cold (right) side of the valve, and the hot supply must be connected to the hot (left) side of the valve. If this is the case, the valve will need to be reinstalled. Note: The cartridge cannot be reversed to correct this issue.
Water temperature is not HOT enough on tub shower units

Typical Cause

Hot water may not be supplied to the valve, a balancing spool may be stuck or the temperature may be calibrated not to allow full hot water (up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit).

Solution

First, if external shut off valves are present, verify they are opened all of the way. It is extremely important that the units have both hot and cold water supplied to the inlets of the valve body. Also, verify the hot water system in the home is on.

Second, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

Note: If comparing the temperature of the water to an adjacent lavatory faucet, you may notice the temperature may not be as hot (or as cold) in the tub/shower valve.

Also, depending on your climate, the incoming water (ground water) temperature may fluctuate during the year. This can cause the overall hot temperature to decrease (or increase) throughout the year.

For Posi-Temp models:

  1. If the water pressure decreases when going from cold to hot, the 1222 cartridge would need to be replaced.
  2. Verify the handle rotates all the way counter-clockwise to a 9 o'clock position. If the handle stops before this position, then the temperature limit stop will need to be re-positioned. Please view the installation instructions for assistance on how to set this.
  3. If the issue is still unresolved, replace the 1222 cartridge and flush the valve body.

For Moentrol Models:

  1. Inspect the 1423 balancing spool. This will appear on the front of the valve body, either to the right or above the cartridge. It will look similar to a large flat head screw, and it will be brass in color about the size of a quarter. A large flat-bladed screwdriver can be used to unscrew the balancing spool from the valve. There will be a spool inside this piece, and it needs to move freely inside of its shell. If the spool does not move freely, then the 1423 balancing spool will need replaced.
  2. Verify the top of the handle rotates all the way to a 9 o'clock position. If the handle stops before this position, then the adjustable temperature limit stop will need to be adjusted to allow the handle to rotate all the way to the hot position. Please view the installation instructions for assistance on how to set this.
  3. If the issue is still unresolved, replace the 1225 cartridge and flush the valve body.

For ¾" ExactTemp models:

Note: For ½" ExactTemp valves refer to original service manual.

  1. Make sure the remperature override button is being pressed in. If calibrated properly, the handle will hit a stop at 105 degrees. In order to get warmer temperatures, the temperature override button needs to be pushed in and then the handle will be able to rotate counter-clockwise to warmer temperatures.
  2. Verify the stops are opened. The stops are located on the inlets of the valve, and they look like small flat head screws. Use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew this counter-clockwise until you reach a stop, this will ensure it is opened all of the way (screwing clockwise until a stop is reached will turn the water off).
  3. The cartridge may need to be calibrated. Instructions on calibration can be obtained via the ExactTemp Service Manual in our Literature Center.

For ioDigital models:

  1. Make sure the temperature knob is being rotated to the hot side. The corresponding LEDs with light red to illustrate this.
  2. Verify that both shut off valves are in the open position. These will vary depending on your ioDigital model.
  3. Verify the hot water supply is attached to the hot water side and the cold water supply is on the cold side. Feel the temperature of the inlet lines. If the hot is going to the cold side and the cold is going to the hot side, the lines will need to be reversed.
  4. Remove the valve inlet screens and inspect for any debris. The water supply will need to be shut off, and then the black nut on the inlets can be unscrewed to remove the inlet screens. Rinse off any debris that may be on these screens and reinstall.
  5. The maximum temperature adjustment setting will need to be calibrated. This can be identified as a blue dial on the valve labeled "Max Temp Adjustment" This can be rotated clockwise to increase the maximum temperature (counter-clockwise will decrease the temperature).

Note: The maximum temperature is factory preset at 115 degrees Fahrenheit.

No water from tub/shower units

Typical Cause

Hot and cold water may not be supplied to the valve, improper use or an obstruction in the spout/showerhead could cause this to happen.

Solution

First, if external shut off valves are present, verify they are opened all of the way. It is extremely important that the units have both hot and cold water supplied to the inlets of the valve body.

Second, make sure there is nothing obstructing the spout or showerhead.

Third, it is essential to identify the model of your faucet. Please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model.

For Posi-Temp models:

  1. Rotate the handle to turn it on. The handle on this model does not pull out.
  2. Both hot and cold water MUST be supplied to the valve to get ANY water from the unit.
  3. If the valve has stops, both will need to be opened. If your Posi-Temp valve has these, they will be located on the inlets of the valve. The stops look like small flat head screws. The flat would need to be horizontal to be opened (if it is vertical, that will shut the water off).

For Moentrol models:

  1. Verify the handle is being pulled out to turn the water on. If the handle is only being rotated, the water will not turn on.
  2. Both hot and cold water MUST be supplied to the valve to get ANY water from the unit.
  3. If the valve has stops, both will need to be opened. If your Moentrol valve has these, they will be located on the inlets of the valve. The stops look like small flat head screws. Use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew this counter-clockwise until you reach a stop, this will ensure it is opened all of the way (screwing clockwise until a stop is reached will turn the water off).

For ¾" ExactTemp models:

Note: For ½" ExactTemp valves refer to original service manual.

  1. These units must be installed with a volume control valve in addition to the thermostatic valve. The volume control must be rotated counter-clockwise to turn the water on. The temperature (thermostatic) handle only adjusts the temperature.
  2. This model will have stops located on the inlets of the valve. The stops look like small flat head screws. Use a flat head screwdriver to unscrew this counter-clockwise until you reach a stop, this will ensure it is opened all of the way (screwing clockwise until a stop is reached will turn the water off).

For ioDigital models:

  1. Verify the controller will turn on. If it does not turn on, please see ioDigital valve will not turn on.
  2. Verify the shut-off valves are in the open position. These will vary depending on your IoDigital model.
IoDigital valve will not turn on

Typical Cause

This can be caused by the controller not being activated, a connection issue between the controller and the valve or a lack of electrical power.

Solution

  1. The power button on the controller has not been pressed in. The LEDs will light after this is pressed.
  2. Inspect the data cable. If the cable has been cut, it will need to be replaced. Also inspect the pins of the data cable. If these are bent, they will need to be straightened or the cable will need to be replaced.
  3. The GFCI may have been tripped. Check the reset button on the GFCI outlet and press the reset button.
  4. Verify the power cord from the valve is plugged into the GFCI outlet.
  5. There may be no electrical power to the GFCI outlet. Check the breaker box in the home for a tripped breaker to this GFCI outlet. Reset the breaker if necessary.
Water comes out of the showerhead when the tub spout is being used

Typical Cause

This is caused by either a restriction in the system or an installation issue.

Solution

  1. Remove the tub spout and inspect for any obstructions that may restrict the water from the spout. Turn the water on and see if the water comes out of the showerhead; if it does not, the issue is with the tub spout. If it cannot be freed of any obstructions, then replace the tub spout.
  2. Inspect the type of pipe used for the installation. From the tub port of the valve, only ½" Copper or ½" Galvanized Iron pipe (IPS) can be used. If PEX or CPVC was used from this connection, it will need to be replaced with either ½" Copper or ½" Galvanized Iron pipe.
  3. Measure the distance between the tub spout and the valve. The tub spout can be no less than six inches and no greater than eleven inches below the valve. If the measurement does not meet these criteria, it can cause this to occur.
  4. There should only be one elbow from the tub port of the valve to the tub spout. If there are multiple elbows, they will need to be eliminated.
  5. If any transitional fittings that might restrict the water flow were used, they will need to be removed.
  6. Inspect the valve body. If it was installed upside down, it will need to be reinstalled in the correct orientation. Many valves will have the word "up" printed on the valve.
  7. If this is a two-handle model, then inspect the flow director (diverter) in the valve. Depending on the location of the water supplies, it may need to be reversed.

Note: If there is no longer any access into the wall, then a volume control valve (Moen part number 91888) can be installed between the shower arm and the showerhead. This will allow the user to turn the showerhead on and off at their discretion, however, this will not provide a positive or complete shut off.

Pop-up drain assembly not closing or opening properly

Typical Cause

This is caused by either a broken pivot rod or an issue with the adjustment the pivot rod or lift rod.

Solution

Inspect the pivot rod. This will be a silver rod that should be installed into the rear of the drain. Depending on the model, there will be a metal or gray plastic pivot rod nut securing the rod in place. This nut can be unscrewed to view the pivot rod. If this rod is broken, it will need to be replaced.

  1. If the pivot rod is not broken, then it will need to be adjusted in conjunction with the lift rod. With the lift rod (the rod that you pull up on the close the drain) in position, verify it is inserted into the lift rod strap (this is a metallic piece with a series of holes) and secure it with the lift rod strap screw.
  2. Connect the pivot rod to the lift rod strap using the spring clip that should be on the pivot rod.
  3. Place the drain plug in the full open position, then loosen the lift rod strap screw and adjust the lift rod height so that the knob on top of the lift rod clears the faucet. Then tighten the lift rod strap screw.

Note: The installation instructions for your faucet will illustrate on how to do this. If you no longer have the installation instructions, please view our Find Your Product section to determine your model. This will allow you to view or download the installation instructions.

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